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Sunday, September 30, 2012

So close...

Clothes I must wear on the plane
I have been corrected (and humbled) to find that there are indeed more than my mom and sister reading this blog (and in fact already have over 550 hits).  Thanks!  Thus, you can all share in the excitement that tomorrow's the day (hopefully) that we head down south.  We are getting up in a few hours in order to check-in at the Antarctic departure center by 5 am sharp, but I have been unable to sleep at all. Rachel and I already have a strike against us in terms of timeliness as we were late for gear issue.  Apparently today was the start of daylight savings, but we somehow never received that memo.  Personally, I didn't think you should be allowed to spring forward twice without one fall back in between.  But alas, my body clock is so dysfunctional by now that I wouldn't know the difference anyways.  We arrived just in time to get our computers checked, receive a flu vaccine, and watch the information video.  We then proceeded to gear issue where we had two bags full of clothes labeled with our names.  Basically, I could have showed up with no clothes for this trip as the ECW (extreme cold weather gear) provides everything from long johns to fleece layers to ridiculously warm outer wear (not to mention 5 different sets of gloves/mittens).  Props go out to Giff, whose name tag is displayed prominently on the example clothing near the entrance of the building.  

My personalized parka
Rachel and I will be taking the airbus rather than the C-17 plane.  This means that we will have windows and not all of the cargo, more like a regular commercial plane (minus the flight attendants).  This also means that since our plane can't land in the nastier conditions, we have a higher probability of boomeranging.  Boomeranging refers to the unfortunate circumstance where after the 5 hour flight to McMurdo, they determine the weather is too severe to land and you must return back to Christchurch.... 10 hours completely wasted.  Of the 55 people on the flight, there are only a couple of scientists with the majority being those hardy folk that run McMurdo station.  They rarely allow scientists on the first flight of the year, but we were given the exception due to the time-sensitive nature of our work.  I just realized that I have yet to give a proper explanation of my project and I promise that blog entry will be forthcoming.   

After our gear pickup, we had a pretty relaxing day.  I checked out the Antarctic IceFest that fortuitously is going on in Christchurch these weeks.  They have quite a bit of historical information on the adventures of Scott, Amundsen, and Shackleton.  There was supposed to be an outdoor movie about the Ross Sea that I tried to attend this evening, but did not show due to technical difficulties.  The guy next to me at the screening found out I was actually going to the Ross Sea tomorrow, and before I knew it, there was a crowd around me looking to hear stories.  Since I'm a newbie myself, I didn't have much to share (except make them all jealous I think).  However, I have been having a blast already sharing my science with so many interested people.  If only politicians also believed in science...

Picking up our ECW
Right now I need to go pack.  We are allowed a strict allotment of 150 pounds each.  Since the IceKid weighs 110 pounds and my ECW weighs 27 pounds, I'm running pretty low on space.  Hopefully Rachel will share some of her allotment.  We need to divide our items into a) checked luggage b) carry-on c) boomerang bag.  If our flight does indeed boomerang, we are only allowed access to our boomerang bag while we wait in Christchurch.  Thankfully they also allow us to leave some items here in Christchurch so I don't need to carry all of our backpacking gear for Australia with us.  I found it interesting that the only questions the other guys asked during gear issue was in what bag should they put their alcohol.  These guys are clearly much more experienced than me.

My next post will hopefully be from McMurdo Station! 

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Gorgeous New Zealand

Good Ol' Cromwell... fruit capital of NZ
You probably came to my blog to see incredible images from Antarctica.  Ha!  I fooled you.  The following images are indeed incredible, but are all from New Zealand (I promise the Antarctica ones will come, provided my camera doesn't wimp out in the cold).  Well, we left off our story telling at Otago University where I was giving a talk to the geography department.  For the two of you that are diehard followers of my blog, you might argue that I was giving a talk to the physics department.  Ahh, but we are trying to recreate my PhD application process when I applied to physics, math, geography, and engineering (all at the same two universities).  Thus, I gave my chemistry talk about my engineering PhD to physics and geology professors (and a math grad) at the Otago geography department.  Surprisingly, everyone seemed to follow it and I was subsequently bombarded with excellent questions.  After an excellent lunch, I drove out to Cromwell to visit the vineyard where I worked in 2007 and was lucky to pick up two hitchhikers in Dunedin who accompanied me the whole way.  Sadly, the owners at Olssens have sold their vineyard but the land seems to still be producing excellent grapes.

Grant and I with Mt Cook over our heads
I then continued the drive out to visit my friends Grant, Sarah, and their four boys (who at ages 7-12 aren't quite as small as I remembered).  Grant didn't need much more of an excuse to take the day off from work to take me on a sweet hike in the Mount Cook National Park (Cook is the tallest Mountain in NZ).  If it wasn't the last day of school for the term, I think the boys would have skipped as well to go skiing.  We started along the Sealy Tarns trail and after a pretty steep climb, we quickly reached the snow fields.  Considering there wasn't a cloud in the sky and the temps were quite warm, the joys of postholing began.  After another hour of sludging through the snow, we decided we were wet enough and lunched with one of the best views I have had in quite some time (maybe since my last visit to NZ).

View of Mt Sefton
I admit that I am quite jealous that this region is now Grant's backyard.  Unfortunately we couldn't spend too long up there as we had to return in time for Daniel's birthday party (or Grant would have been in quite some trouble).  I was treated to a typical 7-year-old NZ birthday party, complete with treasure hunt, sports, and lollicakes.  Alas, I had to call an end to my epic 4-day adventure across NZ.  In total, I think I covered 1100 km (680 miles) and although gas runs at about $6.50/gallon, the fuel efficiency of my little Toyota Yaris ensured I didn't break the bank.





At lunch rocks with Mt Cook in the background
Snowfields with view of lunch rocks


Leaving Mt Cook National Park

Earthquake damage in Christchurch
I finally made it back to my hotel in Christchurch around 9pm.  As Rachel (www.rachelinantarctica.wordpress.com) had just finished her around the world journey to New Zealand, she was already asleep by the time I checked in.  Realizing I still needed to return the rental car to the airport (8 km away), I inquired about a shuttle.  After they mentioned it was $10 I decided I would just enjoy an evening run back, to which they thought I was mad (well it was cold and kind of rainy).  However, I enjoyed those $10 immensely more with an Egyptian souvlaki back in my room. Rachel and I then rendezvoused at a local coffee shop and proceeded to spend the entire day catching up on work.  We did take a sobering walk through downtown Christchurch to observe the damage that still remains from last year's earthquake.  It seems nearly everyone here has a story of someone who just barely survived.  After a productive day, we dined with local Thai food and a bottle of wine from my old vineyard.  

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

NZ, VT, and Jews... so many people?

The world's southernmost synagogue
Who would have thought I would find so many Jews in New Zealand that have connections to Vermont?  The world's southernmost synagogue is in fact a lovely place and I thoroughly enjoyed attending Yom Kippur services there.  NZ and VT have many commonalities, one of them being that neither is a Jewish mecca.  However, a wonderful group of 20 people arrived for morning services with all ages represented.  When I mentioned that I was from a small state called VT, I was shocked to find that nearly half of the group had either lived there or had some other connection.  Others in the group had a connection to Boston.  Most people I meet in the US have never heard of Norwich, VT or Cohasset, MA but this group knew these towns well.  Jewish geography lives on even on the other side of the world.  They consider their services progressive, and actually use the same prayer book we use back home in Hingham.  One of the amazing things about Judaism is that you you can travel to the other side of the world, yet still sing the same prayers with the same melodies.  After services, we all broke the fast together at a local Thai restaurant with incredible food (or at least it tasted that way after nearly a 2-day fast).
The view from Inga and Greg's house

With the sudden change in plans, Inga and Greg graciously agreed to host me both nights while in Dunedin.  They have a beautiful home out on the Otago peninsula, and I really enjoyed the opportunity to sleep-in and relax before we head out onto the ice.  I made a quick trip to the grocery store and was delighted to see the full selection of wines from the vineyard I had worked at 5 years ago.  The owners I knew have moved to Australia, so I don't think I will pass through Cromwell on this visit.  However, I am looking forward to once again sipping wine from the grapes I helped grow.  There is indeed a sense of nostalgia on this return trip to NZ.  Inga even remembered hearing about this story from my previous trip (Kim, it's a miracle you are alive and I'm definitely missing our epic road trip).  Currently I am back at the Otago University campus about to give a talk on my research for the physics department, where Inga is a professor.  Next stop: visiting the Thompsons in Twizel.

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Remembering those we've lost

After 38 hours of travel, I have finally arrived to beautiful NZ.  During every one of my layovers, someone overheard I was going to Antarctica and before I knew it there was a crowd around me.  My flight out of LA was delayed just long enough to ensure I missed my connection in Australia.  I was rebooked on an Air Emirates flight, which meant that I ended up having a 5 plane, 4 different airline trip to arrive in Christchurch.  Needless to say, I was blown away when all 3 of my ridiculously sized bags arrived.  As you all know, I am indeed crazy.  Immediately upon arriving after this multi-day flying adventure, I rented a car and drove 4 1/2 hours to Dunedin.  However, due to the flight delays I arrived just as erev Yom Kippur services were ending.

As I have learned over the last years, you never know what life will throw at you.  It is so important to enjoy your life in the present, and look for and remember the blessings during the difficult times.  While on the road here, twice I received the news that a friends from the past had passed away.  Please take a moment to remember their wonderful lives.  I had truly been looking forward to tonight and the chance to reconnect and catch up with Alison (and John, who survived with their baby and is doing ok).  I will never forget their incredible hospitality and kindness they provided when I was a wwoofer with them in 2007.  Those we love live on with us forever through these memories.  

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Good Fortune in DC

Parade at the US Naval Academy
How to describe the last 48 hours?  Simply put: lots of good fortune.  I show up to Manchester airport (thanks Bill!) and they tell me it will be $90 to check my ridiculously sized backpack on board.  After some sweet talking, I find out that instead I could just spend $60 a fly first class with as much luggage as I want, so I flew in style.  Upon arriving to DC, I immediately went to the US Naval Academy to pick up the IceKid.  I was picked up to the good news that the IceKid as of a couple hours ago was now working for the first time (just in time!).  John Woods and his team are truly miracle workers.  After Jimmy and Dan showed me the inner workings of the IceKid, I spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying a parade at the Naval Academy (once again, perfect timing).  One of the midshipmen then volunteered to drive me back to DC and over to Meg's house.


Midd crew (minus Jason who joins later)
My first image from the IceKid
Meg, Mark, and Kathryn graciously organized a lovely dinner complete with an incredible Midd crew (thanks Mark for putting up with all the reminiscing) and birthday cake for Meg.  After dinner, the gang was easily persuaded to join me in the inaugural IceKid testing.  The IceKid is designed such that a bumbling, mumbling, stumbling idiot with mittens can assemble it at -40 deg.  Thus, it did not take long to assemble inside Meg's warm DC house.  Anxious to see the first images online, we checked out the IceKid website: http://icegoat.datatransport.org/monitor#icekid-1/camera0 but were disappointed to see no image.  As you might expect, there are a couple of logistical differences between DC and Antarctica.  One such example is the presence of buildings that block connection to the iridium satellite.  Thus, we relocated to the front porch and shortly thereafter IceKid made its first connection.  As it turns out, it has stored the data taken inside and we were treated to an incredible first shot.  We were better prepared for the second shot once we realized the camera flashes blue when it is about to take a picture.  Alas, the IceKid figured out where it was located, recognized it was nightime, and went to bed.

We were much more prepared for the 2nd IceKid photo

Ashley's lovely apartment
Yesterday Ian and I went to the Nationals game for his birthday and watched them cruise to an easy victory (something that we've sadly missed this year back in Boston).  While at the game, we left the IceKid on his porch to both test out the solar panels and keep watch for any intruders (unfortunately the IceKid did not catch Christine coming home).  I then was able to celebrate another birthday dinner for a friend with Ian, Christine, and Ashley.  After a great weekend in DC, Ian drove me to the airport with all 200 lbs of my gear.  It was fun being quite the celebrity at the airport.  The ticket agent was thrilled that I was the first person she met who was on route to Antarctica.  Several people who overheard our conversation or saw my gear came up to ask questions about my research or get the web address for this blog.

I haven't quite wrapped my head around my flight schedule.  I take off midday Sunday and touch down in New Zealand midday Tuesday.  At no point though will I ever see the day Monday, Sept 24th.  It's good, I didn't care for that day anyway.  I think I have scheduled this perfectly such that I have a 3 hour layover in LA right as the Pats play Sunday Night Football.

Next post: New Zealand!   

Thursday, September 20, 2012

All my bags are packed, I'm ready to go...

Anyone can build something.  Engineers build things with constraints (time, money, resources, etc.).  I am not an engineer (don't ask me why I'm getting a PhD in engineering).  Maybe I'll become one?  Thankfully I'm blessed to have good friends.
 
The first assignment Rachel gave me was to build a tower for collecting blowing snow in Antarctica with a budget of $500.  I once played with Lincoln logs and I love snow forts, but that is about the extent of my prior skill set.  The very next week, I meet Anthony at a home-brewers meeting who designed such a tower.  I had also recently met Ben, who just happened to have returned from installing said tower in Greenland.  Sweet!

I read a little more into the grant, and it calls for a webcam system such as the one the Canadians used with their OOTI (Out-On-The-Ice) setup.  Well Don sends me up to Barrow, where I just happen to meet those very Canadians with their OOTI sled, sans webcam.  To top it off, I also meet LCDR John Woods from the US Naval Academy.  For Barrow John and his midshipmen built the IceGoat, a ruggedized solar-powered webcam that also records some meteorology data.  After much marveling and non-stop questions by me, John offers to build me a smaller IceGoat... the IceKid for my Antarctic trip.

Very first image from the IceKid
The IceKid saga deserves its own blog entry.  However, the cliff notes is I tell John that I have a very limited budget and am leaving the end of September.  Through John's heroic efforts, the IceKid is born.  Wait!  It weighs 110 lbs and now I find out airlines only let you check luggage up to 70 lbs.  Since nothing fazes John, he somehow finds a way to split the IceKid into two, with one box weighing 69.25 lbs.  As we speak, John's crew is finishing up the IceKid with minutes to spare as I am flying to DC in the morning to pick it up.  Since the IceKid flies with me (rather than with my equipment I shipped via boat back in August), it counts against the 150 lbs of personal gear I can take.  Alas, this called for some extreme light weight packing tonight, particularly since I am carrying all of my backpacking gear for Australia afterwards.

What to take/leave? coconut bra definitely comes
At some point Rachel will probably start catching on.  In fact, I'm already working on trying to get an engineering class to take on one of the challenges for our next grant.  But they don't call it collaboration for no reason, right? 

It's impossible to thank the countless others who have made this trip possible (and I haven't even left yet!).  From right now until Antarctica I have... Bill driving me to Manchester in a few hours and Laura picking me up to take me to the US Naval Academy.  Meg is making a goodbye feast in DC and then Nationals game with Ian for his birthday.  John then drops off the IceKid in time for my plane to NZ Sunday morning.  I crash with Inga Tues near Dunedin for Yom Kippur.  Wed night is with John and Allison (who I WWOOFed for in 2007) before I give a talk at Otago University.  Then onto visiting the Thompsons (also friends from 2007) before meeting Rachel back in Christchurch on 9/28.  On the way back, I think we will even get to crash with Eric in Sydney.  Here's to having great friends in the right places at the right time and willing to lend a hand.   

In the morning I begin my 4 month, 5 continent, 25 plane ride adventure (including the trips shortly following this Antarctic trip).                Bon Voyage!

Saturday, September 8, 2012

Tickets, tickets, tickets...

 How to get to Antarctica?
With 2 weeks until I leave, I finally received my tickets.  Flights to McMurdo Station in Antarctica leave from New Zealand.  I'm heading down a few days early to hopefully visit some old friends from my days on the South Island.  I'll be hitting 6 airports to get me to Christchurch, NZ (Manchester NH, Washington DC, Chicago, Los Angeles, Sydney Australia, Christchurch).  The US Naval Academy offered to build us a webcam for our tower.  Sweet.  Except I need to fly down to DC to pick it up and then carry a 100 lb box with me to New Zealand.  I think I'll be over my weight restriction for flying to Antarctica but I guess we will cross that road when we get to it.  Thankfully Sept 22 just happens to be Ian's bday and we are going to hit up the Nationals game.  It's also helpful to have a friend that will change his work schedule to drive me 1.5 hours down to Manchester on a Friday morning.  Thanks Bill!

What's your itinerary?
I get a lot of strange looks recently when I tell people that I don't know.  Now that I have tickets, I have a few more answers but nothing is certain.  This is a common theme for polar research.  Weather has the final say on anything.  You can plan all you want, but unless God signs expect that plan to change.  I leave home on the 21st and get to NZ on the 25th.  I know I have 2 nights in DC, but I still feel there are some missing days in there.  We hope to be on the first main body flight of the season into McMurdo on Oct 1 (if Weather cooperates).  We will leave Antarctica when we finish, but should be sometime around Nov 12.  Rachel and I then hope to take a vacation in Australia, getting back home Nov 20. 

Will you have any access with the outside world?
I would like to tell everyone no.  However, thanks to mankind's incredible feats (which are still unfathomable to me), I should be able to click a button on a computer at the bottom of the world, send a message out to space, and into your computer seconds later.  No cell phone service.  Mail can be sketchy (remember that everything travels together to Antarctica: mail, people, food, equipment, etc.).  Email should be fine though but just don't tell anyone who needs something from me.